Visiting Painswick, Queen Of the Cotswolds
While the Cotswolds is brimming with picturesque villages, few can rival the charm of Painswick. Often called the “Queen of the Cotswolds,” this hilltop town shines with its winding lanes, historic architecture, and distinctive golden Cotswold stone buildings.
As an ex-pat, I find these honey-hued homes especially enchanting. They are so full of character compared to the wooden structures common in North America. It’s that unique beauty, along with the pull of family, that draws me back to my homeland time and again.
Painswick may appear sleepy at first glance, but don’t let it deceive you. With its rich history, quaint cafés, and spectacular views over the Slad Valley, the town quietly welcomes a steady stream of visitors during the warmer months.
If you’re looking for a peaceful, authentic Cotswold village experience away from the crowds of Bourton-on-the-Water or Cirencester, Painswick is the perfect escape.
Where Is Painswick?
- Location: Gloucestershire on the A46
Painswick is in the heart of Gloucestershire, positioned on the A46 between Stroud, Gloucester, and Cheltenham. It’s 17 miles north of the must-visit Berkeley Castle and 18.5 miles southwest of Sudeley Castle in Winchcombe.
This historic village, like many in the region, prospered during the height of the wool trade. Remnants of its weaving heritage in the stone cottages and former mills still exist.
Though Painswick feels delightfully tucked away, it’s surprisingly accessible. It’s best reached by car, with scenic routes leading in from nearby towns.
While there’s no train station in Painswick itself, frequent rail services run to Stroud (just 10 minutes away by taxi or bus), making it an easy detour for those exploring the Cotswolds by public transport.
Where To Stay
If you plan to stay in Painswick, the accommodation varies from beautiful limestone hotels to cozy cottages and bed and breakfast lodgings.
- Croft House Guest Suite offers lovely views from its hilltop location in Painswick. Guests enjoy complimentary WiFi and a fantastic breakfast.
- Troy House, Gloucester St. A cozy bed and breakfast that offers great service at a good value.
- St. Anne’s Bed and Breakfast is highly rated in the heart of Painswick.
- Court House Manor, Hale Ln. A high-end bed and breakfast in a beautifully landscaped setting.
- Tibbiwell Lodge is a beautiful sandstone home in a quiet setting, just a 3-minute walk to Painswick.
Exploring Painswick
Exploring Painswick feels like stepping back in time. While there’s lots to enjoy in this Cotswolds village, don’t miss a stroll through the churchyard of St. Mary’s.
The Parish Church Of St Mary’s
- Location: 3 New Street, Painswick
One Painswick landmark immediately commands attention: the Parish Church of St. Mary and its extraordinary churchyard. While many visitors are drawn to churches for their architectural interiors, in Painswick, it’s the grounds that steal the spotlight.
Nestled in the heart of the village, the churchyard is home to a remarkable collection of ancient tombs and a striking display of yew trees. So surreal and immaculately pruned, they seem plucked straight from a fairytale.
With their billowing curves and arched forms, the trees create a dreamlike canopy that made me feel as if I’d wandered into the Queen of Hearts’ Garden from Alice in Wonderland.
These yews are not only a horticultural marvel but also a symbol of the town. Each September, the yews are meticulously trimmed, producing two tons of clippings used in anti-cancer medication.
According to local folklore, only 99 yew trees can grow on the church grounds; if a 100th is planted, the devil will remove it. Despite this myth, a 100th tree was planted to mark the new millennium, and recent counts suggest there are now well over 100 trees.
St. Mary’s itself has a long and storied history. The tall spire was rebuilt in 1883 after being struck by lightning. Inside, the church is simple yet welcoming.
The church has a classical entrance and Gothic in style. Its interior is simple and I was pleasantly surprised to see signs noting that gluten-free wafers are available for Communion.
Scattered among the yews are weathered tombs that speak to the town’s prosperous past, when Painswick flourished thanks to the wool trade.
Many of the gravestones mark the resting places of wealthy wool merchants. The headstones ranging from traditional slabs to elaborate, rounded “tea caddy” tombs. Time and weather have softened the inscriptions, but we could still read some.
Along one edge of the churchyard, we came across a cluster of fallen stones carefully propped against a fence—quiet remnants of history, preserved with understated dignity.
Painswick Stocks
- Location: St. Mary’s Street, Painswick
Just south of the local churchyard, the town’s iron stocks stand as a stark reminder of how authorities punished criminals in ancient times. These 1840 stocks make for a candid photo shoot, and I couldn’t resist trying them out.
Because of their shape, they are known as spectacle stocks. These stocks are extremely rare, with only one other similar set known.
Donkey Doors
From the mid-15th to the 19th century, the Cotswolds thrived as the heart of England’s wool and cloth trade. During this era, Painswick prospered thanks to the high-quality wool produced from Cotswold sheep, which was in great demand both at home and abroad.
Merchants and mill workers transported woven cloth and raw wool between mills and markets using packhorses and donkeys. To accommodate these working animals, a unique architectural feature emerged: the “donkey door.” Street signage explained the donkey doors and other town’s aspects.
These doorways were lower and broader than standard entrances, allowing donkeys and small carts to pass directly into cottages, workshops, or storage areas. The doors offered a practical solution for the delivery of yarn and wool from local mills, minimizing the need to unload goods outside in poor weather.
Today, a few of these rare and charming relics still survive in Painswick. We viewed two well-preserved examples at The Chur on Bisley Street and another at the historic Byfield House.
These doors, though subtle in appearance, offer a fascinating glimpse of the town’s working past and the everyday lives of those who helped build the Cotswolds’ reputation as a center of textile production.
Painswick Charming Cottages
On a beautiful summer’s day, we explored the narrow winding streets of this old mill town, admiring the stone buildings. Looking down Hale Lane, we admired the stunning stone walls and sweeping views of the Cotswolds countryside.
The small English wildflower gardens were blooming, which added to the charm of the stone cottages. Outside the Vicarage Cottage, I adored the twig fence, which was intricately interwoven like a sprig blanket.
Many of the buildings had informational signage listing their origins. One was a slaughterhouse, one a maternity home, another a bathhouse, and numerous alehouses. Origin photos showed shots from ancient times, even one with sheep in the streets.
At mid-day, we stopped for lunch at Olivas, an absolute gem on Friday Street. This family owned deli has an intimate dining area which can only accommodate a small crowd. But the food is fresh, homemade and delicious. Unfortunately, this deli has closed permanently.
The Bowling Green
- Location: Behind Falcon Inn, New Street, Painswick
The Falcon Bowling Club currently uses the bowling green at The Falcon Inn in Painswick, which many believe to be the oldest in Britain, dating back to the mid-1550s.
The group meets regularly and invites non-members to bowl for free on Friday nights. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, pop into the inn for a warm welcome and a delicious meal.
Painswick Beacon
Although Painswick sits at a high elevation, the best vistas of Severn Valley are from Painswick Beacon. It’s a scenic two-hour roundtrip walk from the village. On a clear day, enjoy views of Gloucester, Cheltenham, the Malvern Hills, and even Wales.
The walk itself is moderately easy, suitable for most fitness levels. However, it provides little shade, so prepare accordingly if you plan to visit on a hot, sunny day.
The route winds through a mix of woodland, open fields, and part of the Painswick Golf Course. It’s a peaceful and varied landscape but do keep an eye out for the occasional stray golf ball as you pass through the fairways. At the summit, there are remains of an Iron Age hill fort.
Painswick Rococo Gardens
- Location: Gloucester Rd, Painswick
Just beyond the village center lies the enchanting Painswick Rococo Garden. This restored 18th-century horticultural gem made me feel like stepping into a fairytale. In early spring, thousands of delicate white snowdrops blanket the grounds. It’s an unmissable sight.
Designed as a playful pleasure garden, it features whimsical water elements, a picturesque plunge pool, and an intricate hedge maze.
The maze itself forms the number “250,” commemorating the 250th anniversary of Thomas Robins’ famous painting of the gardens. The real challenge? Reaching the center of the “5”—a task trickier than it first appears.
Beyond the manicured paths and floral displays, the garden features an eclectic mix of outdoor art installations. Sculptures of Cotswold hares and deer made from natural materials blend seamlessly with the landscape.
Chainsaw artist Denius Parson transformed a fallen tree into a miniature castle, drawing inspiration from Bavaria’s Schloss Neuschwanstein. The result is a space rich in history and brimming with imaginative surprises.
Other Areas Outside Painswick
If craving more after the Queen of the Cotswolds, check out Cirencester, Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, Lechlade-on-Thames, and Gloucester.
Gloucester Cathedral with its gorgeous cloisters is one of Britain’s most notable cathedrals and the filming location of some Harry Potter films.
