Fishbourne Roman Palace, A Walk In The Past

During a recent trip to England, we split our time between Gloucestershire and West Sussex. While staying near Arundel Castle, where we couldn’t resist another visit, we also made a point of travelling to Fishbourne to explore its remarkable Roman Palace.

As part of the same day trip, I visited Bignor Roman Villa, another well-preserved site showcasing Britain’s Roman heritage. With ancient mosaics, walls, and excavated structures, these ruins offered a fascinating glimpse into Roman life in Britain.

Having explored many of the UK’s medieval castles, it was exciting to learn about the archaeological work involved in uncovering Roman villas.

Where Is Fishbourne Roman Palace?

• Location: Roman Way, Chichester, West Sussex | Open: Daily 10 am to 5 pm

Located in the village of Fishbourne, near Chichester, we found it easy to find off the A27 west of Bognor Regis. Positioned on a dead-end street, we noted ample, free parking, which was relatively empty the day we arrived.

If you’re staying in London, the Roman ruins make a great day trip from the capital by train. It’s an easy 5-minute walk from Fishbourne train station to the palace. Should you belong to the Sussex Archaeological Society, members pay no entrance fee.

Otherwise, the Villa charges visitors a nominal price of £13.95 for adults, £6.95 for children aged 5 to 16, and £13.00 for seniors. Children under five are free.

The History Of Fishbourne Palace

Arriving at Fishbourne Palace, we stepped back in time and explored the largest known Roman building in Northern Europe. Discovered by accident in 1960, it took years of careful excavation to gently uncover the thousands of artifacts.

Estimated to have been constructed in AD 75, we were astonished by the remarkably well-preserved condition of the palace floors, considering their age. Believed to be built as a military base and the home of Tiberius Claudius Togidubnus, the colossal Palace succumbed to fire around 280 AD.

At the time of the fire, the building was under renovation. But due to the catastrophic event, the palace was never completed. After the fire, the damage was irreparable, so the ruins were left to the elements and abandoned.

In terms of size, it mirrors Nero’s Golden House, located in Rome. At the site, we watched an informative film showing what the Palace looked like in its prime. Constructed as a square with four wings and surrounding a formal courtyard, the villa resembles a palatial residence fit for royalty.

Watching the film and seeing a scale model of the complete Palace, we could only imagine the opulence of this place thousands of years ago.

The north and east wings housed suites that encompassed smaller courtyards. Archaeologists have excavated the north wing, which visitors can enjoy today.

What To See At Fishbourne Roman Palace?

Much of the excavated site remains undercover to protect it from the continuous elements of weather. Browsing the small-scale artefacts, we viewed ancient coins, pottery, and everyday objects such as knives and iron keys.

The fire melted much of the glass windows and shattered pottery items. However, the archaeologists reassembled some of the pottery items for display. During excavation, archaeologists uncovered the remains of pagan burials, and some are on display at the Palace.

Initially, the Palace had 100 rooms, and during my visit, we were able to view a recreated room, complete with a mosaic floor and painted plaster walls. The residents built their furniture from wood, but after 2,000 years, none has survived.

In a cavernous room, the 2,000-year-old North Wing mesmerized us with its incredible floors that have stood the test of time. While the walls are gone, the stone footings and mosaic floors show the layout of the Palace.

We marveled at the visitors’ centre, which was ingeniously designed with railing walkways over the original corridors, protecting the ancient artefacts from modern-day shoes.

The Mosaics

Wide walkways allow visitors to admire the mosaics below without feeling crowded. The floors range from small patches to entire rooms. Fishbourne holds the largest collection of Roman mosaics in Britain, each design telling a different story.

Early mosaics used simple black-and-white patterns. Italian craftsmen created them, as local artisans were still learning the skill. Materials were sourced locally, mainly limestone and chalk.

A century later, vibrant new mosaics were laid over the originals. These used bold colors and more complex designs. Some featured stunning details, though others lacked the precision of earlier work.

One standout for me was the Cupid on a Dolphin mosaic. Cupid and the dolphin sit at the center, surrounded by vases and seahorses. A rope border frames the scene, with a blackbird near the doorway acting as the artist’s signature.

At the entrance, the pattern shifts, creating a doormat effect to welcome guests. Despite the fire damage, much of the color remains: red, yellow, and grey are still visible.

It’s remarkable how much is still hidden. Most of the palace lies unexcavated beneath roads and homes. In the west wing, mosaics were found, then reburied to protect them from the elements.

Roman Hypocaust System

One of the things that fascinated me at the Fishbourne Roman Palace was its Roman hypocaust system. The hypocaust, or underfloor heating system, provided a way to heat the palace through furnace gases funneled into chambers located under the floor.

The basement hypocaust consisted of stone towers set two feet apart, allowing for open spaces. A cement floor or larger stone was laid on top, enclosing the chamber below. The mosaics were laid on the cement layer, completing the floor of the room.

Heated gases from nearby furnaces flowed into the underfloor chamber, creating what is now known as in-floor heating. Throughout the years, the hypocaust underwent renovations and the addition of interior baths.

Fishbourne Palace Gardens

Outside, the central courtyard replicates the original design of a large, grassed area bordered by boxwood hedging. Its simple design is far less stately than the Palace itself.

A 40-foot-wide central pathway leads to a flight of stairs in front of the audience chambers. In the centre, a square stone marks the base of where a statue stood.

Scattered on the grounds, stone foundations show the position of the other building’s wings. Excavated piping reveals that the Romans channeled water into the villa. Since the interior mosaics included various roses, historians believe they may have been planted in the formal gardens.

Adjacent to the courtyard, a kitchen garden suggests the villa’s residents grew their food in the rich soil. In another building, the storeroom houses thousands of uncovered artifacts that have yet to be examined and prepared for display.

After an enjoyable visit to Fishbourne Palace, I also visited another nearby Roman Villa, just 16.5 miles away.

Bignor Roman Villa

• Location: Bignor, West Sussex | Open: Daily 10 am to 5 pm

Driving the winding road to Bignor Roman Villa felt like entering the middle of nowhere. Set in the South Downs, it’s surrounded by stunning West Sussex countryside. The nearest train station is over three miles away in Amberley, making visiting by car the easiest option.

Arriving at the Villa, we saw 2,000-year-old stone columns in the field where the Villa once stood. Nearby, thatched-roof cottages housed the artefacts and preserved mosaic floors.

Admission to view the artifacts was very reasonable, half the cost of visiting Fishbourne Roman Palace.

What To See At Bignor Roman Villa

Like the Palace in Fishbourne, the Romans built Bignor Roman Villa as a square around a central courtyard. Smaller than Fishbourne Palace, it’s believed the initial Villa had 65 rooms.

The Villa was discovered in 1811 when a farmer, George Tupper, was plowing the field. A few years later, the Tuppers opened the Villa to the public. Today, the Tupper family still owns the Roman structure at Bignor, which is estimated to date from the mid-to-late 2nd century.

Inside, a small-scale model shows what the Villa looked like 2,000 years ago. Artefacts on display include pieces of pottery, animal bones, and fragments of mosaic floors.

In 1996, archaeologists found an infant’s remains on the site. Romans buried their babies close to the settlement for unknown reasons, but they laid adults to rest elsewhere.

The Bignor Mosaics

Browsing the thatched buildings, we were stunned by the mosaic floors, noting that their colors were more vivid than those found at Fishbourne. On display in the north corridor, we viewed the longest mosaic in England at 24 meters or almost 79 feet.

During the third century, the original mosaic pavement measured 70 meters, or approximately 230 feet. At the end of the corridor, a black dolphin with its creator’s signature adorns the floor.

The Villa’s center houses the Ganymede mosaic, first discovered by George Tupper. The oversized design features a hexagon water basin in the floor. It served as both a focal point and a decorative element. A lead pipe under the floor supplied the water.  

We admired the Venus and Cupid Gladiator mosaic in another building, the centerpiece of the winter dining room. At one end, a single cupid floats innocently, while the opposite end features a strip of fighting gladiators.

Above the fighters, long-tailed birds surround the head of Venus. I’d imagined that during its creation, this was a magnificent floor. Even centuries later, the remarkable mosaic astonished me, and I found it hard to believe it was 2,000 years old.

Today, the center of the floor has collapsed, allowing me to view the same underfloor heating system seen at Fishbourne Palace. Nearby, a hypocaust flue indicates where the heated gases escaped, preventing the inhabitants from getting carbon monoxide poisoning.

The final building housed a magnificent floor mosaic of Medusa, a focal point of the bathhouse. With Medusa featured in the center, the design radiated outwards with swirls and ropes of red, yellow, grey, black, and white tiles.

The Grounds

Outside, a large “Frigidarium” or cold bath would have served all those who lived in the Villa. With steps leading into the tub, Romans would have played, talked, and met friends here.

During Roman times, soap was not used. Instead, bathers rubbed olive oil on their skin and scraped it off with a curved blade instrument called a strigil.

Final Thoughts

If you’re fascinated by British history, don’t miss these two venues. They have the finest preserved floor mosaics in England. While many visitors flock to Bath to admire the Roman ruins, most don’t know these West Sussex gems.

Located close together, we managed to visit them both in one day, spending adequate time at each place. While we didn’t know what to expect, we learned a lot about Roman heating systems and left mesmerized by the fantastic mosaics.